Found in Nature: Natural Dye Workshop
A workshop exploring natural dyeing using foraged plants, with the aim to envision possibilities for fossil fuel-free fashion. A hands-on experience for students to explore natural dyeing accompanied by a walk to identify urban dye plants. In the workshop participants create dyed fabric samples and leave with notes for further experimentation in their own time.
Image: © Katelyn Toth-Fejel
Key information
- Participants: up to 20 Postgraduate students at a time, dependent on space and materials available.
- Duration: it is a 1.5 hour long session, with the option to extend with the accompanied walk.
- Location: in person, at the Mare Street London College of Fashion (LCF) building.
Designed to accompany other inductions and taster sessions of technical workshops to allow MA Fashion Futures students from London College of Fashion (LCF), to identify their area of interest during their first term at university. The workshop also gave students an opportunity to reflect on possible alternative futures for fashion, for instance versions of fashion which are local, regenerative and ‘slow’. The workshop aimed to introduce the Mare Street natural dye garden. Due to class time constraints, all the plants used for the workshop were foraged in advance by the tutor. But students were able to view the plant life in its whole form, before taking part in the chopping needed to prepare it for the dye bath. Plants used included apple and cherry leaves and bank, fig leaves, onion skins, St. john’s wart, and dock roots. Fabrics included pre-mordanted silk and cotton. Mordants used include alum and rhubarb leaves.
This workshop was run as part of a unit called New Fashion Perspectives. It was run by various staff including Katelyn Toth-Fejel, Julia Crew and Sarah Weightman. The workshop takes place annually in October. With more time and resources, students could be involved in the foraging activities as part of a separate field trip. In the case of these workshops, most of the plants were foraged from the tutor’s garden and local parks. The workshop can be run in any season, although in the winter it is more difficult to source local dye plants. It is time-consuming process for the tutors preparing the workshop, as it takes a full day to prepare all the necessary materials with the help of one technician to help with the heating apparatus. The workshop involves many health and safety risks, so this needs to be considered.
How you can take the Found in Nature: Natural Dye Workshop into your own work:
It is a highly adaptable workshop which could in theory be conducted fully outdoors. Many of the processes explained in this workshop can be found in the Colour of Fashion Handbook with an introduction to natural dyeing, created by Katelyn Toth-Fejel and Centre for Sustainable Fashion.
Considerations to be aware of:
- The workshop took place in October but could be run in any season of the year. Although in the winter it is more difficult to source local dye plants.
- A full risk assessment should be carried out to mitigate Health and Safety concerns.
- Certain tasks should only be carried out by trained staff and students briefed on how to work in safe zones and in ways which minimise splashing.
- Foraging must be conducted in an ethical way and led by a tutor with knowledge of safe and poisonous plants.
- Bullet point list of things to be aware of – keep to 1 liner per bullet where possible.
Image: © Katelyn Toth-Fejel
Contact
Katelyn Toth-Fejel, Senior Lecturer Fashion and Sustainability, London College of Fashion, UAL – k.toth-fejel@fashion.arts.ac.uk.
Julia Crew, Course Leader MA Fashion Futures, London College of Fashion, UAL – j.crew@fashion.arts.ac.uk.
Sarah Weightman, Specialist Technician Sample Room, London College of Fashion, UAL – s.weightman@fashion.arts.ac.uk.